Now is the time to plan for travel in 2025. Please consider joining me on one of my 2025 culinary & cultural tours to Portugal, Puglia, and Turkey (now called Turkiyë).
Aadapted from The Soupmaker’s Kitchen by Aliza Green
Caldo verde, which means “hot green broth” is considered by many to be Portugal’s national dish. This kale-based soup originated in the Minho Province in northern Portugal but has become a national favorite found everywhere from fancy hotel dining rooms to humble peasant homes. Caldo Verde is often accompanied by broa, yeast-raised Portuguese cornbread, for sopping up the delicious juices, similar to American Southern soul food where cornbread sops up the juices of cooked collards.
Makes about 5 quarts, serves 10 to 12
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
½ pound chorizo sausage, sliced or cut into smaller pieces
1 large onion, diced
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 quarts chicken stock, simmering
2 pounds potatoes, preferably gold such as Yukon Gold, quartered and sliced
1 large bunch young collards or Tuscan kale, leaves shredded
Salt and fresh ground black pepper, to taste
Place olive oil in a large soup pot and heat. Add the sausage and brown while breaking up the sausage into small bits. Add the onions and cook over medium heat or softened but not browned.
Add the Stock and use a wooden spoon to release the tasty browned bits on the bottom of the pot. Add the potatoes, garlic, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil then lower heat and simmer until potatoes are half cooked, about 10 minutes.
Add the shredded kale to the soup and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Taste for seasoning and serve.
Like all dark leafy greens, bright, curly kale is an excellent source of antioxidants. Look for fresh kale in fall and winter at farmers markets. Lacinato, also known as Tuscan kale or cavalo nero (black cabbage) is another good choice.
Start by separating the leaves and washing them vigorously in a large bowl or sinkful of water. Drain. One at a time, grasp a kale leaf by its stem and pull forward on the stem from the bottom towards the top. Pull the leaf portion away from the tough stem. Once all the leaves have been trimmed (discard the stems or save them for compost, not stock), cut them crosswise into thin strips.
I am proud to say that my book, Aruba’s Papiamento Cuisine, has been short-listed for a Gourmand World Cookbook Award in the Caribbean category. Purchase the book at Barnes & Noble, 1708 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia.
Portuguese kale known as Tronchuda, has large, paddle-shaped dark blue-green leaves with thick, white, fleshy ribs and mild, sweet flavor. It is also known as Braganza or Galician Cabbage, or Sea Kale. Here it is growing in the kitchen garden at Casa Rural Viscondes where we’ll learn to make this soup.
Explore Portugal from Porto to Lisbon with stays in Porto, the winery region of the Douro Valley, Coimbra with its ancient university, and Lisbon.
Visits to the Salgado region, Peso da Régua, Pinhão, Lamego, Aveiro, Obidos, and Sintra. Spend the last three days of the tour in Lisbon getting to know its many neighborhoods perched above the Tagus River estuary and the Atlantic Ocean.
Shredded kale for soup at our cooking class in the Douro Valley.
Cast-iron tripod soup pots in the kitchen at Hotel Rural Casa dos Viscondes da Várzea
Making Pasteis de Nata in Belem
Flowering trees in the garden at Casa Rural des Viscontes
Learning to make Bolo de Lamego, a type of stuffed bread
Musicians at the Fado Cultural Center in Coimbra
Aveiro, the “Venice of Portugal” is known for its Arte Moderne (art nouveau) homes along its many canals.
The romantic Baroque Palace of Pena in Sintra.
$7,475 sharing in a twin room, single supplement $1,580
9 nights, 4 star hotels, at least 2 meals a day (including breakfast), cooking classes, expert local guides, boat rides, museum visits, historic sites, market foodie tours, wine tastings, and more all included.
RegisterExplore ancient Puglia, at the heel of Italy’s boot and the Adriatic with its hand-built dry stone trulli houses, superb seafood, the cave dwellings in nearby Matera, and the “white city” of Ostuni.
Arrive in Bari or Brindisi, stay at a traditional masseria (fortified farm) near Alberobello. Stroll seaside Bari’s winding streets. Discover the “white city” of Ostuni overlooking the Adriatic. Cross the provincial border to Basilicata and Matera’s cave dwellings and Altamura, famed for wood-oven baked bread. Tour Baroque Lecce and head south to the beautiful Salento area and Gallipoli. Return from Brindisi.
Ultra-fresh sea urchins from Puglia’s Adriatic coast
Visiting an olive grove full of ancient trees, some over 1,000 years old
Ristorante Trullo di Oro in Alberobello
Wooden fishing boats near Bari, Puglia
All types of orecchiette from tiny to large hand-made on the streets of Old Bari
Il Mago di Gelato in seaside Polignano a Mare
$7,950 sharing in a twin room, single supplement upon request
8 nights, 4 star hotels and a country estate, at least 2 meals a day (including breakfast), cooking classes, expert local guides, boat rides, entry fees to historic sites, market foodie tours, wine tastings, and more all included.
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