Cheddar and Dill Gougères

Cheddar and Dill Gougères

One of my daily tasks when working at The Garden, Philadelphia’s legendary French country restaurant, in the late 70’s was making a tray of gougères, a specialty of Burgundy often made with Gruyère, Comté, or Emmentaler, here extra-sharp cheddar. These light, airy, and crisp savory pastries are made from pâte à choux (cream puff) dough mixed with cheese and dill; chives, tarragon, or thyme are other good choices. They are a perfect accompaniment to a glass of wine. Because they are best made when the humidity is low, wintertime is ideal.

Makes about 80, serves about 16 as an hors d’oeuvre

2 cups water
½ pound unsalted butter, cut into bits
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper
½ pound (1 cup minus 1 tablespoon) unbleached all-purpose flour
8 large eggs, at room temperature
½ pound extra-sharp Cheddar cheese, grated (1½ ups)
1 small bunch dill, leaves and tender stems chopped
1 large egg lightly beaten with 2 tablespoons milk, for the egg wash

Preparation:
Combine the water, butter, and salt in a medium pot, cover, and bring to a boil. As soon as the butter has melted, and without allowing any of the water to boil away, uncover, and dump the flour in all at once. Beat with a wooden spoon to combine thoroughly until the mixture forms a firm dough. Continue to cook for 2 to 3 minutes, beating constantly until the dough starts to dry out and comes away from the sides of the pot.

Transfer the dough to the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on medium speed for about 1 minute, or until smooth and slightly cooled. Beat in the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition to achieve a satiny, slightly sticky paste with the consistency between a soft dough and a thick batter. Add the cheese and dill and beat 1 minute longer, until combined well.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 375°F. Line two 18 x 13-inch half sheet pans (or other large baking pans) with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.

Transfer the mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a large plain tip and pipe out small high rounds onto the prepared baking pans, 1 inch apart to allow for spreading. Alternatively, use 2 teaspoons of the dough to form balls and drop in rows on the paper.

Brush the tops of the gougères with the egg wash. Bake 25 to 30 minutes or until puffed and golden brown, then reduce the heat to 250°F and bake 15 minutes longer or until the gougères are dried out, firm, and medium brown in color. Turn off the oven and allow the gougères to dry out in the oven about 15 minutes before serving. If desired, prepare a day ahead and reheat in the oven to restore their pleasing crispness.

To freeze and bake later, spread the balls in a single layer on a parchment paper-lined baking pan, brush with the egg wash, and freeze. Once frozen solid, transfer to a freezer container and cover tightly. Bake straight from the freezer increasing the baking time by about 10 minutes.

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